
If your American Standard toilet has a slow leak (even after replacing the flapper), the issue is likely a worn fill valve seal or O-ring. This guide covers model-specific seal replacement (Champion 4, Cadet, Universal) for American Standard toilets, including OEM part numbers, step-by-step installation, and troubleshooting.
American Standard toilets use unique seals—matching the correct part number is critical for a tight fit. Use the table below to find the right seal for your model:
| Model/Series | OEM Part Number | Seal Type | Size | Compatible Models |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Champion 4 / Eljer Titan 4 | 7301111-0070A | Blue Flush Valve Seal | OD 4-1/4″ | 4000, 4021, 4061, 4149A, 4215A, 4225A, 4260, 4266 |
| Universal Flush Valve | 7381042-0070A | Silicone Flush Seal | Standard | Most non-Champion American Standard toilets |
| General Fill Valve | N/A | Supply Line O-ring | 9/16″ OD | All American Standard fill valves |
| Aftermarket Replacement | Korky 450 / Danco 40415 | Chlorine-Resistant Rubber | 4″ flush valve | Replaces 7301111-0070A (Champion 4) |
Replacement American Standard seal/O-ring kit (match OEM part number)
Needle-nose pliers
Adjustable wrench (toilet-specific wrench recommended)
Towels/buckets (for water cleanup)
Food coloring (to test for leaks post-repair)
White vinegar (to remove mineral deposits)
Follow these model-specific steps to replace the seal on your American Standard toilet:
Turn off the water supply valve (located behind the toilet base).
Flush the toilet to empty the tank; soak up remaining water with towels (no standing water = no mess).
Disconnect the water supply line from the bottom of the fill valve (use an adjustable wrench if stuck—avoid over-tightening).
Unthread the black nut on top of the green flush valve cover (twist counterclockwise).
Lift off the cover and pull the old blue seal off the valve stem (use pliers if stuck with mineral buildup).
Inspect the O-ring on the fill valve base—replace it if cracked, brittle, or worn.
Under the tank, loosen the fill valve locknut (use a wrench or toilet tool) and remove it.
Lift the fill valve out of the tank and peel the old seal from the valve base groove.
Replace the O-ring on the fill valve inlet (where the supply line connects).
Stretch the new seal over the valve stem (Champion 4) or press it firmly into the groove (universal models)—ensure it’s fully seated (no twists).
Reattach the flush valve cover (Champion 4) or secure the fill valve with the locknut (universal)—tighten evenly to avoid cracking the tank.
Reconnect the water supply line: hand-tighten first, then add a ¼ turn with a wrench (over-tightening damages washers).
Turn the water supply back on and let the tank fill completely.
Add 5–10 drops of food coloring to the tank; wait 10–15 minutes (do NOT flush).
If no colored water appears in the bowl, the seal is tight (leak fixed).
Check for water pooling around the tank base or supply line connections—tighten if needed.
Leak Persists After Replacement: Clean the valve seat with vinegar and a soft brush (mineral buildup prevents a tight seal). Adjust the float so water level is 1–2 inches below the overflow tube (prevents overflow leaks).
Fill Valve Makes Hissing Noise: Replace the supply line washer or retighten the connection—loose fittings cause air gaps and noise.
Champion 4 Seal Fails Quickly: Use a chlorine-resistant silicone seal (Korky 450) for hard water areas (chlorine degrades rubber).
Fill Valve Won’t Shut Off: Replace the entire fill valve assembly (American Standard 7381042-0070A or Fluidmaster 400A aftermarket).
Always replace the O-ring with the seal—even a new seal won’t work if the O-ring is damaged.
For Champion 3 toilets, use a yellow aftermarket seal (not blue—size mismatch).
If the fill valve is over 5 years old, replace the entire assembly (more reliable than just the seal).
Flush the tank with vinegar (1:1 water ratio) every 6 months to prevent mineral buildup (extends seal life).
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